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ON TOP OF THE WORLD

Louisa Warde • Sep 09, 2021

A playground of bright ideas and fantastic design as well as centuries old temples, Louisa Castle gets hooked on Tokyo's culture.

It has always been a dream of my husband's to travel to Japan. He was booked on a plane five years ago, the week before the earthquake and subsequent tsunami. His trip was cancelled. Fitting somehow, that five years to the day we find ourselves in Tokyo.

 

Being high on my husband's wish list of travel destinations means there must be something technological or mechanical on the radar. If you weren't already aware he's a self-confessed geek (of the chic variety) and petrolhead. As our trip is confirmed I am immediately shown footage of Top Gear's race across Japan and of Miraikan, the National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation, home to ASIMO. I have visions of skyscrapers too but also of the history, the temples and great sushi.

 

We're lucky to have the airport on our doorstep but still travel sometimes has to be from Gatwick or Heathrow. So we were pleased to hear that Cathay Pacific had recently opened up a route from Manchester direct to Hong Kong. It was going to be a long flight so plenty of time to prioritise our days (based on the weather) as we settled into our seats. And as our families were just setting to sleep we arrived via a seamless connection with amazing lounge access in Hong Kong, in Haneda Airport, Japan.

The Peninsula Hotel is described as offering tech-savvy sensibilities alongside classic elegance. The 24-storey building stands on the edge of Hibiya Park and the Imperial Palace Gardens, it is on the edge of Tokyo's version of Central Park. The perfect place from which to explore.

 

As we pass through the revolving doors to be greeted with forests of cherry blossom and its associated scent, our welcome is a very warm one. Our home for the next five nights was a Deluxe King Room with floor to ceiling windows, views of the Park, all the amenities you could wish for and fresh flowers. There was a separate dressing room and large bathroom, complete with (please don't think me crude) a toilet with control panel - someone was impressed. So far Tokyo was appealing to both the geek and the culture vulture.

 

Without a lot of sleep and a time difference of nine hours, we decided to stay within the hotel for our first night, being tempted by the Hei Fung Terrace Cantonese restaurant on the second floor. 

Entering the restaurant from the lift, it felt like you were entering an exotic garden terrace, hence the name I guess. Settled with a window view and glass of champagne we were tempted by most things on the menu but with weary brains could only agree on the Premium tasting menu and I was so glad we did. It was a feast but also allowed us to try some dishes we wouldn't typically go for like stewed Australian abalone and melt in the mouth Wagyu sirloin slices - whilst Wagyu is on many menus these days, nothing I have tasted in this country has ever come close.

 

Day one is damp one. My first piece of advice, pack for wet weather. Temperatures flitted between nine and 19 during our stay but a thin Mac is a must. Our destination was Akihabara, the electric town, a.k.a the shopping district for video games, anime, manga and computer goods. My husband's choice. And we were going to attempt the subway, upon the advice of our charming concierge. There's a subway entrance on the basement floor of the hotel so it's perfect for getting around. And, whilst we were uncertain how easy it would be, ticket machines and stops are all in English, far easier than London.

 

As you emerge from the station Akihabara is bright, it's bold and is a haven for any geek or part geek out there. You can buy anything, as long as it has something to do with electronics. As a non-geek it was still an amazing sight especially at dusk when the buildings really come to life as well as the streets.

 

We especially loved the street food stations beneath the railway. Do try it out. Pick your meal from the menu (with pictures) pay at the ticket machine and take it to the food caravan to collect. Simple, good food and incredibly friendly. Also here is a small shrine, Kanda Myolin Shrine, surrounded by high rises and concrete yet incredibly tranquil. 

Ever the advocates of discovering new places on foot we decided to walk back to the hotel through Chiyoda district absorbing the sights and sounds and ending up in Ginza. This was now my place - one of the most luxurious shopping districts in the world and home to reportedly the busiest crossing. The leading fashion houses are here but also some little gems; the Mitsukoshi department store, Takumi for folk arts and Itoya for stationary geeks. And just on the edge a great restaurant Gonpachi, the inspiration for Kill Bill and experts in Kushiyaki (charcoal-grilled skewers) which is frequented by local businessmen just as much as tourists.

 

Day two, we took advantage of the sun and ventured to the Meiji Shrine just north of the Olympic Village, home to the largest Torii gate in the world and vast expanse of parkland, including a stunning iris garden. Whilst in the area take a stroll around the Harajuku district to see cosplay fans dressed in favourite characters and individual cafes and stores. We also spent some time at the Ota Memorial Museum of Art, which displays more than 12,000 pieces of Japanese woodblock prints of Kabuki characters and instantly recognisable Great Wave off Kanagawa by Hokusai.

 

Evening was for sushi and we headed for the Tsukiji area, near the fish market to Sushi Iwa. It does get booked up very quickly, especially the counter seats so, like we did, ask your lovely concierge to help you there. Simple, minimalist surroundings offer the perfect place to watch the chefs at work and take in the freshest seafood of favourite tastes and new.

 

Our next day was hunting for the iconic Mount Fuji. And hunt we did. She is renowned as being elusive, hiding in a shroud of cloud and today, was no different. We did get a great photo of the clouds for use with a bit of imagination. Also, as part of our day we visited Hakone and the Five Lakes. It reminded us of the Lake District on a misty day but a great trip to see how Tokyo merges into the countryside. It also meant a trip on the Shinkansen, or Bullet Train which swooshes in and out of stations on the short trip back.

Our next day was hunting for the iconic Mount Fuji. And hunt we did. She is renowned as being elusive, hiding in a shroud of cloud and today, was no different. We did get a great photo of the clouds for use with a bit of imagination. Also, as part of our day we visited Hakone and the Five Lakes. It reminded us of the Lake District on a misty day but a great trip to see how Tokyo merges into the countryside. It also meant a trip on the Shinkansen, or Bullet Train which swooshes in and out of stations on the short trip back.

 

After our day Fuji hunting we stayed into eat in The Lobby of the hotel. The place we take breakfast each morning and which looks to have an amazing afternoon tea. I have to mention the staff here as they were superb, answering our questions about Japanese breakfasts, which we soon became fans of and enquiring and advising of our daily activities with a genuine care. The food was a mixture of cultures so you could go for steak and chips (guilty and delicious) or Japanese curry (equally delicious).

 

Our last day in Tokyo and we headed to Asakusa in search of some of the old Tokyo, however touristy. We weren't disappointed as we emerged from the subway to be greeted by rickshaws and traditional kimono dress. It's also home to Tokyo's oldest Budhist temple and Thunder Gate. Also you can't fail to miss Nakamise-dori, the street leading to the Thunder Gate, lined with small shops selling souvenirs from ukiyo-e (woodblock prints) to Godzilla toys.

 

A walk around Yanaka is also advised if you're looking for some history. It's one of the best preserved old quarters of Tokyo, a rare enclave which has survived earthquakes and bombings.

 

Our final dinner in Tokyo, after soaking our weary feet, is in Peter, The Peninsula's 24th floor restaurant. It is immediately funky, with impressive lighting and a floor to ceiling show but what is most impressive is the view. The full extent of the park and Imperial Palace Gardens, a great wander on a warm day which takes on new life at night.

Home to the bar for the hotel as well, the place was alive. A mixture of tourists and of businessmen and women, enjoying the view and the food. Again, wanting to try everything but not sure what to prioritise we enjoyed the grilled four-course set dinner, commencing with sashimi, pan-fried scallop and lobster and the Japanese beef tenderloin. And to conclude a cherry blossom cocktail. All full of taste and utterly delicious. The Peninsula group is looking to open in London and we are looking forward to it bringing its service and style to our capital.

 

Our five days in Tokyo has flown by and it has shown us a real mix of sights with many more to return to. As a city it is easy to manoeuvre with an excellent subway and train system as well as clean somehow. It also has something for everyone, adults, kids, big kids, geeks, culture vultures and fashionistas. I'm not a big fan of modern cities but I have a soft spot for Tokyo. I think we'll be back one day...

 

The Deluxe Room costs from JPY 48,000 per night (tokyo.peninsula.com)


Cathay Pacific flies from London Heathrow to Hong Kong five times daily and from Manchester to Hong Kong four times per week, and onwards to over 190 destinations globally. As of September, it will also fly from Gatwick to Hong Kong four times per week. For further information, visit www.cathaypacific.co.uk or call 0208 834 8888.

 

Fares from Manchester to Tokyo, via Hong Kong, cost from £849 in economy, £1,909 in premium economy and £3,659 in business class.



(Information correct as of 2016)

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